Latvian folk costumes tell stories of our ancestors through the language of symbols, materials, and colors. Woven into the colorful patterned skirts, forged into the metal brooches and crowns, and stitched into the shirts are clues to how they lived, what they valued and believed in. These intricate, historically handmade outfits are a true showcase of Latvian craftsmanship throughout the ages.

Today, we speak of two types of Latvian folk costumes: the archaeological and the ethnographic. However, what we typically think of as the Latvian folk costume relates to the second half of the 19th century.

The ethnographic Latvian folk costume

The array of ethnographic folk costumes represents the evolution of our farming ancestors’ wardrobes. A major shift occurred in the mid-19th century, when wealthier farmers began moving to the city, urban fashions appeared, and the Latvian folk costumes became more elaborate with the addition of elements such as silk headscarves, chunky brooches, and top-hats. Much of the variety can be attributed to regional differences.

The archaeological Latvian folk costume

Dominated by dark blue wool and complemented with elaborate bronze jewelry and leather footwear, this type of costume is reconstructed from the findings of archaeological excavations. These were worn by the ancient tribes, each of which had its own ornaments.

Adorning many Latvian folk costumes are symbols believed to protect the wearer from bad fortune. Many represent the ancient gods worshiped by the Baltic tribes, such as Māra, the protector of women and promoter of fertility. Others represent cosmic phenomena – the Sun, Moon, and Star.

How you wear certain parts of the costume also carries meaning. Women’s headwear, for example, can signal whether the wearer is married. Traditionally, on special occasions, maidens would wear crowns, while wives would wear bonnets, hats, or shawls.

The vainags – crown or wreath – is a beautiful element that illustrates the incredible diversity of our folk costumes. It can be made from metal, beads, or flowers. Today, several Latvian makers, such as Brigita Stroda, Arta Kokareviča, and Judīte Bukša, create contemporary versions of the crown, which are popular as wedding accessories or as part of stage outfits. See, for example, the performances of the ethno-pop band Tautumeitas!

Another striking feature is the sakta – a decorative and practical metal brooch for pinning together different parts of an outfit. Again, it comes in many styles and sizes, but the ones belonging to the Suiti, the Catholic community in the western part of Latvia, really stand out. Featuring glistening red stones, they shine brightly against the vibrant Suiti folk costume.

While modern day Latvians have mostly switched to wearing contemporary fashion, we do dust our costumes off for special occasions like the summer and winter solstices, and the Song and Dance Celebration. The festival, which takes place every five years, is arguably the best time to witness the array of folk attire, as thousands of singers, dancers and musicians fill the streets of Riga. The “Uzvelc tautas tērpu par godu Latvijai” (Don your folk costume in celebration of Latvia) campaign also encourages people to dress up for events like the Restoration of the Independence of Latvia on 4 May.

Clothing inspired by folk costumes is also popular. Latvian brand Radada, for example, creates skirts, tops, and dresses adorned with images of a crowned young folk maiden. The company was even invited to show them off at London Fashion Week! Other local brands, such as BaltaisVilks, produce linen apparel, embracing tradition but incorporating modern design.

In Riga, Senā klēts is a “national costume center”, offering an exhibition of the traditional attire. Its name translates to the Old Granary in reference to how Latvians once used granaries as a repository for valuables. Customers regularly express their awe at the beauty of the collection, and the patterned wool mittens are a popular souvenir. Japanese visitors are particularly fond of the craftsmanship. Should you be looking to order a Latvian folk costume of your own, this is a good place to start!