Riga is the best city in the world through which to walk with your head tilted back at an angle of thirty degrees.
By doing so, you escape the usual shop frontages and can drink in the beauty of art nouveau architecture, masterful brickwork and, if voyeuristically inclined, the open windows of unsuspecting residents.
Tilt your head back a couple more degrees and another of the city's wonders becomes apparent: castles in the air.
This is the phrase I use to describe those small, odd, seemingly unnecessary additions to the residential skyline: tiny rooms and miniature towers that seem to serve no real purpose other than to act as a playful architectural flourish. They are remarkably abundant in the art nouveau district but also crop up on the wooden buildings of Agenskalns and Kalnciema district, and even occasionally smuggle themselves onto the roofs of brick-built functionalist apartment blocks in the Soviet-era suburbs.
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